Monthly Archives: September 2018

1968 “DX Devil”

1968SepEEThe young man shown on the cover of the September-October 1968 issue of Elementary Electronics, along with his loyal beagle, are taking a break from baseball to pull in some DX on their Heathkit GR-43 portable shortwave receiver.

But the portable was pulling in DX from all corners of the world, since it had been effectively souped up, thanks to the “DX Devil” described in the magazine.

The DX Devil was a one-transistor (MPF-107 FET) regenerative preamplifier, which gave 40 dB gain from 3-30 MHz.  In addition, it eliminated images, since the tuning was sharp enough to eliminate the offending signal 910 kHz away.  And since it was regenerative, it also served as a Q-multiplier to vastly increase the set’s selectivity.  The author noted that most shortwave sets selling for less than $75 lacked a tuned RF stage, and that the addition of the DX Devil would vastly increase both sensitivity and selectivity.

Three plug-in coils allowed for band selection.  The article noted that the unit’s performance would be especially noticeable on higher frequencies.  Tuning was accomplished with a vernier dial to allow amplification of a very narrow bandwidth.  In operation, the regeneration control was set to just below the point of oscillation, ensuring maximum gain.

The author noted that the performance of the DX Devil would be inversely proportional to the quality of the receiver used: “The worse your set is, the more startling will be the results.” He reported that on a pre-WW2 receiver, 28 MHz signals were lifted from inaudibility to 100% copy. But even on a modern dual-conversion superhet, he reported much more readable signals, with the S-meter jumping 20-30 dB.

Operation of the unit would require two hands.  First, you would tune the receiver to the desired frequency.  Then, you would rock the tuning control back and forth while slowly increasing the regeneration.  I imagine that it would take a bit of practice, but eventually, you would find that the signal strength had jumped considerably.

Despite being concealed in the cover photo, the DX Devil did require a direct connection between an external antenna and the antenna terminals of the receiver.  The four diodes shown in the circuit were to provide protection in case the DX Devil was used in close proximity to a transmitter, or in case of static discharges.  At the low signal levels, they would have little effect on the circuit, but when presented with a stronger signal, they would provide a low-impedance path to ground.

1968SepEEschematic

The designer of this circuit is a familiar name to readers. The circuit was designed by the author of the article, Hartland B. Smith, W8VVD, currently licensed as W8QX.  He was first licensed in 1941, and was the author of many construction articles, such as one for a steam-powered transmitter previously featured here.  He was also the creator of the HART-65 transmitter.  A link to some of his websites can be found at the steam-powered transmitter post.  Tomorrow, we’ll bring you an even more interesting article by the same author from 1958.

Most times when I post an illustration such as this of a completed project in use, I need to take a certain amount of poetic license to name the characters.  So ordinarily, I would probably assign the name “Junior” to the young SWL, and “Fido” to his canine companion.  But in this case, such artistic license is not necessary, since the magazine gives the full name of the SWL, namely, one Gary Bulger.  And the dog’s name is Gladys.

I wasn’t able to track down Mr. Bulger, who I’m guessing lived in the New York area in 1968, since that’s where the magazine was based.  But people Google their names from time to time, and if you are the young Mr. Bulger shown in the photo, we would love to follow up with your recollections of this photo.  Please comment below or e-mail me at clem.law@usa.net.



Science Fair Project: Electricity Through Glass

1938SepPSIf you’re looking for an interesting but slightly dangerous experiment for your science fair project, you’ve come to the right place, with this project from the August 1938 issue of Popular Science. With just a few odds and ends from the hardware store, you’ll be able to cause an electric current to flow through glass.

You’ll need some copper wire (which can be cannibalized from the electric light you’ll be using, as well as some glass tubes.  If you can’t find the glass tubing locally (or “borrow” a couple from your science teacher), then one of the least expensive options appears to be these reusable glass drinking straws from Amazon or these glass test tubes.

You’ll need a lamp cord similar to the one shown here, or you can simply use a normal desk lamp.  Cut one of the two wires leading to the lamp (or plug it into an extension cord and cut one of those two wires), and strip the insulation off the end of the two wires.  Insert each wire into a glass tube.

Of course, glass is an insulator, so the lamp won’t work when plugged in.  But when you hold the two glass tubes next to each other and heat them in a bunsen burner, electricity will begin arcing through the molten glass, and the light will come on.

It appears that what’s happening is that an oxide of the copper is mixing with the molten glass, and the current is using this as an electrical path.  When you remove the glass from the flame, the light will stay lit until the glass again solidifies.

Warning:  This experiment uses household electricity, which can kill you if you’re not careful.  Don’t work in a wet area or anyplace where you can touch a metal object.  Whatever you do, don’t let anyone touch either of the two exposed wires.  When you’re done with the experiment, cut the plug off your modified cord so that some younger kid won’t plug it in and get electrocuted.  Do this experiment only with adult supervision.

 



Copper Coil Winding Hint

1938SepSWcraftThe September 1938 issue of Short Wave & Television shared this hint for winding transmitter inductors from copper tubing, without kinking the copper. Before winding, place a cork in one end and fill the tube with sand. Then, plug the other end. The sand exerts an internal pressure which keeps the tubing from collapsing.

The idea had been sent in to the magazine by one Donald E.A. Rose.